1977 d/l engine mounts needed

[furthestreaches]

Have any idea where to get them? I found a possible rebuilder for around $130/pair, another place has some for sale for $85 each. This is getting a little expensive.

Any PACNW'ers here? I'd like to get a good paint job for mine, but it's pricey too. D**n car. But what a ride! ;D

thanks, Bill

[furthestreaches]

Also need a smog pump bracket. More to come....

[dgn111]

yeah i am looking for engine mounts as well. there are only 2 places that i have been able to find but they are for rebuilt or new mounts. the first is www.kennedyamerican.com which is an all amc parts store. they do new, nos, and reproduced parts for all the cars. they have some sheet metal for pacers, and a bunch of other stuff. the other place that i found is www.rust-free-parts.com which has heavy duty pacer parts, like the door remotes, and remanufactured engine mounts.

kennedy has the bracket for $10 but the motor mounts for new are expensive (145 each) but for a pair rebuilt is it 175

[furthestreaches]

Thanks for the info - I wasn't aware of the Kennedy American web site. I also need to find a power steering rack and pinion unit. I bought the wrong size on ebay recently. What a good time.

[naildriver]

Are you guys talking about the upper or lower mount? Also do you need the whole thing or just the rubber insert.

[glenh]

The Pacer engine mounts are unique, and nobody manufactures replacements, but the inserts are similar to the ones used for Mopar slant six applications in the 1970s-80s. I used to offer a rebuild service for Pacer mounts and used Anchor 2376 or McQuay-Norris MM2351 to replace the original insert. If your parts store can't find anything without an original application, try 1980 Dodge Diplomat with the 225 cid slant six.

The procedure is to straighten the end of the old insert's shell so that it can be removed from the bracket, then install the new insert and bend the end of the shell so that it is retained in the bracket. Note that the flange on the insert goes to the rear of the car; this prevents the engine from moving forward into the radiator. If the new insert has arrows molded into the rubber, I always installed the arrows pointing up, as viewed from the installed position in the car.

Depending on the insert manufacturer, the shell is a fairly loose fit in the brackets, so it is important to retain it in the bracket. Some inserts came with instructions indicating that one could hammer on the shell to retain it, but I never had much luck with this. I built a rudimentary tool for a hydraulic press to form the shell, but it was a time consuming process to do the forming. If I were to begin offering this service again, I'd build an improved tool to lock it into place. Some people have MIG welded the shell to the bracket, but that makes it difficult to replace again.